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Thaipusam

Thaipusam, a Hindu Festival
In trance during the Hindu Festival

Thaipusam in Penang is something special. If you ask me, Thaipusam is one of the most colourful festivals in Malaysia.

Malaysia, with its multi racial cultural society, has a range of cultural and religious festivals. It seems there's always something to celebrate! For the Indian population Thaipusam (together with Deepavali) is the most important festival in the year.

Thaipusam is a Hindu festival, primarily a festival for the south Indians. Thaipusam celebrates the day Goddess Parvati bestowed upon her son the “vel” or lance to vanquish the evil demon, Soorapadam. This lance denotes spiritual insight, ability to differentiate right from wrong, righteousness and steadfastness. However, Thaipusam has come to mean the birthday of Lord Subramaniam, also known as Lord Muruga, the younger son of Lord Shiva.

Hindus celebrate the Indian festival in the tenth month of Lunar calendar (Thai) which is usually in between January 15 and February 15. Although it is primarily a south Indian festival, you will see plenty of north Indians, Punjabis, Chinese and even an occasional orang puti (westerners) fulfilling their vows.

Thaipusam, a Hindu Festival
Chinese believers preparing, 2nd day morning

The festival is celebrated over several days but for those who will carry a Kavadi, the preparation start weeks earlier with prayers and a strict vegetarian diet.

The first day of the Thaipusam will start with bringing Lord Murunga out of the temple in downtown Georgetown at sunrise. From here, Lord Muruga will travel to the Waterfall Temple, a journey of about 10 km that will take the whole first day of the festival.

It's a spectacular journey where in front of the chariot with the deity coconuts will be broken to cleans the streets. There are people dancing until they're in trance. Food and drinks are free available. All temples, Indian and Chinese, will be open to pay respect to the passing Lord Muruga. It's worth to come early, at sunrise (the exact time is only known to a few priests in the temple) and feel the atmosphere changing when Lord Muruga comes out of the temple. The Thaipusam has officially started and everyone wants to be as close to the deity as possible.

Thaipusam, a Hindu Festival
First day cleansing the road for Lord Muruga with coconut, thousands are smased on the road that day.

The second day

The second day starts early for the believers. The start for their own journey begins at sunrise in the Lorong Kulit Temple. If you come early you will see devotees preparing to fulfill their vows. The devotee will be brought in trance and many will have their tongue, forehead and cheek skewered with long silver needles. Some will have their chest and back pieces with metal hooks. One year I saw man with coconuts hanging on his chest. Others pull with hooks connected to their back a huge statue of the deity.

Thaipusam, a Hindu Festival
Coconuts hooked to the chest.

Thaipusam, a Hindu Festival
Hooks in the back but no blood.

Thaipusam, a Hindu Festival
Hooks connected to their back.

Some will carry statues of the deity on their head. These statues can easily weight 30kg or more. You will see whole families fulfilling their vows, some carrying a baby to pray for good health, luck and fortune.

On the way from the Lorong Kulit Temple to the Waterfall Temple, all the temples on the way will be visited to pray. At many places you will see the believers dancing on loud music, despite the huge weights some carry on the heads.

Thaipusam, a Hindu Festival
On the way to the Waterfall temple

For a non believer like me, even as I am writing this, it sounds scary. The truth is, when you are in the festival area it is one happy family. The spirituality is tense in the air. I have visited the festival 3 times and every time it was a pleasure, a magic experience. From nearby I witnessed one of my friends son fulfilling the vow.

A good place to get a little closer to the believers is the stairs that lead to the Waterfall Temple. If you come early you may want to go all the way up but later in the day it can be too crowded and might take easy 1 to 2 hours (even though the climb up is short).

The stairs are a great point to view people. Young and old believers, some carrying a lightweight kavadi, others carry a heavy burden. But all share the same happiness in doing so. Another good thing to do is get a vegetarian meal in the temple. It might be busy, but I guarantee you, it's another piece of the experience, plus, the food is really good and as you expect, 100% vegetarian.

Thaipusam, a Hindu Festival
Lord Muruga leaves the temple at sunrise

As I was told, everything depends on the right preparation with the right mindset and holding on to a strict vegetarian diet.

The first time I was at the Thaipusam festival in Penang, I was totally knock out by the atmosphere, the happiness and devotion of people. I can only say, it was absolute magic.

If there is one festival in Malaysia that deserves a visit, it's Thaipusam. In Kuala Lumpur you may find the largest mass of believers around the Batu Caves, but it is in Penang where you can experience the Thaipusam the best.

Article provided by Peter van der Lans. Peter is a Dutchman who lives in Malaysia for several years. He is a traveler (came by bicycle from Holland all the way overland) and is the writer of www.pulau-pangkor.com.

Date Written : 29th October 2009 No Comments
Category: Cultural Heartland
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