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Batik Sarong, Nyonya Traditional Wear

Never leave Penang without a Batik Sarong!

The Sarong is very much like a Pareo, except that it is usually made of cotton, or more recently, silk. Depending on the origin and design, the quality of
the cotton varies. There is a distinct difference between the Nyonya, Malay, and Indonesian Sarongs. The Penang Nyonya has all three in her wardrobe. However, the most exquisite and prized by the nyonya is the Pekalongan Sarong.

The Pekalongan or Batik Cina sarongs are unique in its colour and design. It is vivid and engages the use of favourite Nyonya motifs such as blossoms, flowers, butterflies, mandarin ducks and floral baskets. These are a combination of the Chinese, European, and British influences. The background may consist of a plain base colour, usually a surprising mix of vivids or pastels. Alternatively, a busy and dense background filled with smaller designs covers the entire panel.  The darker somber colour and browns are termed Kiam, and reserved for the more matured ladies. The younger ladies favour corals, mint green, sky blue and other delightful pastel shades. Sarongs that come entirely in blue and white, or a combination of blue, black, green and white are reserved for mourning.

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                                          Swallow design on Sarong                                         

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Sarong for mourning

Designs and patterns on the Malay Sarong is similarly either hand painted with a chanting or uses the cap, which is a metal block with intricate motifs or designs. Geometric or formalized designs
compliment the softer, flowing lines of the remaining panels. The Sarong is usually divided into two sections, the Kepala taking a third of the entire Badan of the cloth. Whilst Malays women wear the Kepala behind, the Nyonyas wears theirs with the kepala in front.

Some of the Sarongs originating from Indonesia come in only one panel with one base colour, usually black. It has bolder and bigger designs of flowers or bamboos painted in browns and white.  It is a long rectangular piece called a Serenang and usually worn wrapped around with its end pleated.  With every step the lady takes, it opens up like a fan and one catches a peep of legs!

Batik_sarongs_from_Indonesia
Batik Sarongs from Indonesia

Penang Nyonyas pair their sarongs with Kebayas or white blouses with Borderie Anglaise edgings and the Baju Panjang. Much consideration is given to the colour and design of the Kebaya matching the Sarong. The epitome of aesthetics is in the complement of colour and design matching the Sarong to the Kebaya.  The beauty of a cleverly matched Sarong and Kebaya makes the nyonya in her Sarong Kebaya a true delight to the eyes!

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A Nyonya's Sarong collection in an antique lacquered cupboard
       
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Blue and white Sarongs for mourning use

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Floral Basket Design


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Article & Photographs provided by Lillian Tong for Penang Passion

Date Written : 11th August 2009 No Comments
Category: Cultural Heartland
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